Brakes, Seals, Housings, Bearings, Gaskets

A while back I tore into the brakes and rear axle seals on my 1967 Westy to fix both a bearing leak, and a rear wheel cylinder leak. Ronnie fixed me up with his German bearing seals and Mexican seal kits, I already had new brake shoes from Wolfsburg West and my local Autozone (FLAPS) provided actual German rear brake cylinders cheap! Ronnie went above and beyond with advice, tips and support!

Upon disassembly, as expected, everything was either grease covered or filthy, so everything came apart to be cleaned and/or bead blasted and painted or replaced. The backing plates were stripped, primed and painted.
The return springs and other brake hardware were all in nice condition, cleaned up set aside. I had to replace the driver side outer "roller" style wheel bearing on the stub axle. What a bitch that was to pull, even with a factory VW #241A bearing puller! Does anyone know if they made a different factory axle bearing puller for the newer roller bearings vs. the older style ball bearings? I have the correct VW Factory shop manuals and VW Parts book and the Muir Book for my Bus. I'm now about to re-assemble all these spiffy, clean parts. But before I do, I have a few quick questions.

Q1: The Workshop manual says to renew both paper seals (the one between the red. box housing and the brake backing plate as well as the one between the backing plate and the bearing cover. They mention nothing about using sealant. Should I use something like the brush-on liquid "Permatex Form-a-gasket sealant" or "Gasketsinch" sealant on both sides of each gasket, or put the gaskets in dry? Knowledgeable opinions?
A1: I used Permatex brand "right stuff" sealer

Q2: When re-installing red. box drain (I used "magnetic") plugs, after cleaning the threads very thoroughly, should a dab of the above mentioned sealant be used or not used on the threads before installing to help prevent leaks? Anyone know of a torque spec for these plugs? I didn't see one. I know not to over tighten them. And yes I have been, and will be using GL-4 tranny gear oil.
A2: It's not necessary to use a sealer on the drain plug, they are like a pipe plug, and have a tapered thread

Q3: The Workshop manual says to use a little "hi-melting point graphite grease" on the brake adjusting stars for lubrication when re-assembling them in their housing. What is a modern-day brand and descriptive name for this grease? If it's unusual stuff, where do you get it?
A3: Permatex brand "antiseize compound"

Q4: Am I correct in assuming that the only parts used out of the generic rear axle seal kits when used on a 1964-'67 "big nut" Bus tranny are the two paper gaskets, the smaller "O" ring, the cotter pin and the axle grease seal (I used Ronnie's German seal instead of the one included in the kit). The larger "O" ring and the large flat, thin washer included in the kit can be saved or discarded. Does that sound correct?
A4: Yes!

Q5: Finally, do any of you experts out there have any wonderful tips to share concerning these procedures (bearing seal replacement and rear brake replacement)?
A5: Bring your bus to Connie's Repair Service! Putting the seal in the cover can be a pain if you don't have the tool to press it in. just make sure it's in straight, and that you don't kink it.

PB Blaster is good penetrate.

Let it soak overnight, spray it a few times in the process, and if you have access to a propane torch, or bigger if your comfy with a torch, heat helps also. Just keep a fire extinguisher close! When you heat a line, sometimes you can have a flex hose blow though.

Consider all new hoses and lines, wheel cylinder, etc. then you know you're safe where you're at.